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Wednesday, June 23, 2021

Paris Style Week: Highlights from this week’s couture exhibits

Written by Allyssia Alleyne, CNN

If the ready-to-wear exhibits are about promoting product, Paris’ high fashion exhibits, staged annually in January and July, are about promoting the dream. In the course of the Spring-Summer time 2021 season, which happened from January 25 to twenty-eight, the few designers working on this rarefied area as soon as once more got here collectively — this time, just about — to parade their most fantastical designs.

Whereas the theatrical collections usually embrace elaborate runway productions, world-building has develop into tougher because of the restrictions of the coronavirus pandemic — however not unimaginable. This season, a variety of designers discovered methods to awe by means of the pc display alone.

Under are this week’s standout moments.

Kim Jones brings the celebrities out at Fendi

Kate Moss and her daughter Lila Grace Moss have been a part of the star-studded group of fashions presenting Kim Jones’ debut Fendi assortment. Credit score: Stephane de Sakutin/AFP/Getty Imagane

Ever since he was first introduced because the successor to the late Karl Lagerfeld, the business has been eagerly ready to see what Dior menswear designer Kim Jones would do as Fendi’s new head of womenswear and couture — particularly contemplating that he’d by no means formally designed in both class.

This week, he leapt into each when he unveiled his first assortment for the Italian home, impressed by Virginia Woolf’s novel “Orlando,” a few male aristocrat who wakes up in the future as a girl, and Charleston, the East Sussex house the place Woolf and different members of the Bloomsbury Set would congregate. The present was stacked with gauzy, crystal-embellished robes; flowing capes and sharp, androgynous suiting. Instead of a conventional runway present, Jones took over Paris’ Palais Brongniart, with fashions navigating a maze of interlocking glass “F” shapes in a pre-taped video.

The grandiosity and artistry was all however eclipsed by the star-studded forged, which included actress Demi Moore and Nineties supermodels Christy Turlington, Naomi Campbell and Kate Moss. It was additionally one thing of a household affair: Moss’ 18-year-old daughter, Lila Grace, and Turlington’s nephew, former skilled baseball participant James Turlington, have been additionally included, as have been the daughters of Silvia Venturini Fendi, the home’s artistic director for equipment, menswear and kids.

Demi Moore walks in Fendi's couture show

Demi Moore walks in Fendi’s couture present Credit score: Stephane de Sakutin/AFP/Getty Pictures

Charles de Vilmorin makes his colourful couture debut

A model wearing a bold design from French fashion designer Charles de Vilmorin's haute couture debut.

A mannequin carrying a daring design from French dressmaker Charles de Vilmorin’s high fashion debut. Credit score: STEPHANE DE SAKUTIN/AFP/AFP by way of Getty Pictures

In December, lower than a 12 months after launching his made-to-order enterprise, 24-year-old Charles de Vilmorin, a graduate of the École de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne, was invited to point out as a visitor member at high fashion week. And with a bombastic debut, he is established himself as one to look at.

In his video presentation, de Vilmorin’s pals are wearing his new designs, or else lined in rainbows of physique make-up. There are bold-shouldered coats, mini attire with built-in breasts, and cropped puffer coats, lined in butterflies, hearts, flowers and faces, all hand-painted by the designer himself.

Thus far, de Vilmorin has already been given the stamp of approval from designers Jean Paul Gaultier and Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, and he additionally participated in GucciFest, the Italian model’s trend and movie competition final fall. After this displaying, his fan base is definitely set to develop.

Valentino proposes informal couture

The Spring-Summer 2021 Valentino haute couture collection put daywear in the spotlight.

The Spring-Summer time 2021 Valentino high fashion assortment put daywear within the highlight. Credit score: Valentino

Final summer season, working with British photographer Nick Knight, Valentino delivered excessive drama with a reside video that featured fashions perched on rotating risers or aerial rings (all the higher to point out off the Autumn-Winter 2020 assortment’s exaggerated proportions). However this season, artistic director Pierpaolo Piccioli introduced issues again all the way down to Earth.

In a video titled “Temporal,” fashions carrying the brand new assortment walked by means of an ornate corridor within the baroque Galleria Colonna in Rome. There have been the standard superb moments of dazzle and sparkle, in sleeveless tops lined in jewels, metallic platform heels and a sequined jumpsuit, however for probably the most half, daywear took middle stage: outsized trench coats, turtlenecks and chinos; poplin shirts and second-skin attire; and a cashmere-lined hoodie thrown in for good measure.

“My concept is to witness the second,” Piccioli informed Vogue forward of the debut. “It is extra about items that may give an effortlessness.”

Chanel levels a grand marriage ceremony on the Grand Palais

Throughout his tenure at Chanel, the late Karl Lagerfeld reworked the Grand Palais into every thing from a grocery store to a rocketship. However this 12 months, artistic director Virginie Viard struck an entirely completely different notice in an intimate in-person affair.

“I knew we could not manage a giant present, that we must invent one thing else, so I got here up with the concept of a small cortège that will come down the steps of the Grand Palais and move beneath arches of flowers,” Viard stated in her present notes. “Like a household celebration, a marriage… “

Chanel invited solely a slim visitor record — together with model ambassadors Penelope Cruz, Marion Cotillard and Vanessa Paradis, all sitting far aside — to witness the Spring-Summer time 2021 presentation reside. Within the video of the shoot, captured with drones and handheld cameras by photographer Anton Corbijn, fashions first descended onto the flower-strewn runway in a smiling, joyous mob to a slowed-down cowl of the Ronettes basic “Be My Child.” The garments themselves, trendy and romantic, included ruffled boleros, organza ball skirts and embroidered attire in pastels, in addition to sleeveless tweed pantsuits and gorgeous sheer attire with well-placed pockets — appropriate choices for each sort of marriage ceremony visitor.

Christian Dior brings the tarot to life

A look from Dior's Spring-Summer 2021 haute couture collection.

A glance from Dior’s Spring-Summer time 2021 high fashion assortment. Credit score: Christian Dior

At a time when the longer term feels much less predictable than ever, Dior artistic director Maria Grazia Chiuri has taken inspiration from divination, presenting a dramatic assortment impressed by the tarot.

“(Tarot card symbols) present perception right into a magical world that enables us to discover the unknown and look inside ourselves,” Grazia Chiuri stated in a submit on Instagram.

In “Le château du tarot,” directed by Matteo Garrone, a younger girl wanders a Tuscan palazzo and encounters residing embodiments of among the tarot’s Main Arcana — like “The Idiot” and “The Excessive Priestess” — every dressed within the Spring-Summer time 2020 assortment.

By way of design, there are many Grazia Chiuri’s standard hallmarks, together with romantic sheer robes, jacquard and velvet. “Justice” sits primly in high-necked inexperienced silk, whereas “The Satan” prefers a plunging neckline. “Demise” prefers periwinkle blue and a chain-mail veil.

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